Oil Pressure Sender Reconditioning

by Scott Fabre

 

Last Update: 06/08/2009

February 10, 2002

The oil pressure sender failed again. This is the second time in five years. These devices should not be failing so often. An investigation was necessary. The symptom is when the pressure indicated on the dash fluctuates from 80lbs to 0lbs the back to 80lbs.

 

Upon dissecting the sender unit I found that it could be rebuilt. Actually reconditioned is the proper term. I did not set out to do this because the part only cost $22. It just turned out that way.

 

The part is a Neihoff DR4010. I went to four different auto parts stores and they all had the same one. As you will see in the pictures this device has three pins one of which is used for the actual output. The other two are not connected to anything. There is also an adjusting screw that is accessible down through the top of the connector. The access in initially blocked with a rubbery substance which is easily remove to access the screw. This can come in handy later if you want to set the calibration yourself.

As the pictures will show, I first pulled the plastic over up about 1/2 in. The tapped out the center pin. The center pin is the only one that you need to tap out. Then pull off the cover and drain any oil out. You will note that the assembly is a wire wound coil over a rectangular substraight with a center wiper which is moved across the coil to a position depending on the pressure pushing up on the spring.

 

The sensor it self started to leak when it failed. The leak is small but is enough interfere with the center wiper causing an intermittent loss of signal.

 

The pictures tell the story. Use the down arrow to select a thumbnail view. If you want to see the thumbnail larger then click on it, but of course you knew that already.

 


1
Part Numbers

2
Leaky when broke

3
Pulling the cover up a half inch

4
Mr. GoodWrench

5
Tapping out the pin

6
The oil is everywhere inside

7
A wire coil with a center wiper

8
Using press to reset the plastic piece

9
Plastic part rotates freely and should not

10
Placing a 21mm socket over the plastic end

11
Pressig socket down into the metal base

12
All three pieces

13
The set screw on the top

14
Rubber mallet to set the outer cover on

 

  Disclaimer:  Repairs and techniques are reported here by amateurs and professionals as an informational opinion service only and should not be attempted by other than factory trained and certified technicians. The ZR1 Net does not recommend anyone doing these procedures and is not responsible for any adverse outcome. Factory repair manuals should always be used and followed to the letter in conjunction with any repair or maintenance performed. All cautions and warnings that appear in the factory manuals apply here as well. As recommended in all service manuals, proper eye and body protection as well as proper tools must be used for any maintenance performed by individuals. Working on automobiles is dangerous and could result in personal and/or property injury. If you do not have the proper tools or know-how, you should not do any of these procedures, but have a qualified technician perform the work.  
   

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